SEVEN STUFF
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Sweet Pea II's specifications
Megasquirt EFI
Electrical stuff
Motorcycle carbs

May 2008 Zetec Install
MegaJolt Ignition
A gallery of pictures
My first attempt at building a sports car for £250

Electrics and toys


Electrics Menu:Headlamp warning buzzer - - Air Fuel Ratio meter - - Shift Light - - Megajolt distributorless ignition module

Rob's Locost electrics and toys page

Have just fitted a pair of VDO volt and ammeter guages on the trans tunnel
Next step is to try and wire them in without causing any damage to life or limb

Headlamp Warning unit

Ok so I'm a numpty and have been caught out by leaving my headlights on in broad daylight and walking away
Maybe Its because my switch is just where I put my hand when exiting the car - as a few times kindly souls have stopped me before wandering off - asking if I knew they were left on...
I have returned to the car a few times and found just the sidelights on (could be curious bypassers fingers just flicking the switch to see if it has an ejector seat- maybe its me doing it?)

The following circuit SHOULD help save me from having to jump start her or asking for a push start
The parts were sourced from Maplins - costing £2.68

The circuit was built, fitted and tested by the time the kettle had boiled - jobs a good un

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Air / Fuel Ratio meter

As I am planning to put Motorcycle carbs on the car - I feel I may need to monitor the air/fuel ratio
The parts are easy to get hold of and the circuit is crude and simple - but so is the reading from what I have read
Not one to be put off by this kind of talk - and prefering a simple Too lean / running OK / running rich type indicator will be better than melting pistons whilst trying to get the bike carbs at least running so I can take it to a rolling road to be fully tuned will suffice and should give adequate warning that disaster is iminent
The components are very cheap (aprox £10 for everything) and the narrowband Lambda sensor has been donated by Car Components of Gosport (and can be very cheaply obtained from a scrappy or from eBay)
My sensor is from an unknown make and model - and is a 4 wire unit
2 white wires heat the sensor up - meaning it should start to give a reading fairly early on - and is not entirely reliant on exhaust heat to get the unit to operating temperature
The grey wire is the signal ground and the black wire should give 1v output when running rich , .45v when running at Stoich and 0v when the wire falls off or is running lean (piston / valves melting)
Using a semiconductor (LM3914 bargraph display) the voltage gets converted to lighting up a row of LED's
Taking this a step further - joining a pair of the LM3914's means I can drive 20 LEDs and have some kind of visual indication of whats going on mixture wise

Click the thumbnail image below for the circuit diagram I am using..

Pictures of the display and Lambda sensor!!

Clicky thumbnails

Lambda Sensor


Display

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Shift Light - and over rev warning

F1 style shift light - and over rev warning
Have just ordered the parts from Maplins - will put up details, pictures and a video when I've got it all working!!
Estimated costs are around the £15 mark

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Megajolt Jr

Megajolt Lite Jr (MJLJ) is an experimental ignition controller designed to control a Ford EDIS 4, 6 or 8 distributorless ignition module. It can run stand alone, or in conjunction with a fuel injection computer such as Megasquirt EFI.
This will allow me to properly map the ignition advance - and ditch the distributer - gaining BHP as well as a proper rev limiter and shift light setup
Their website is
http://picasso.org/mjlj/

Mine has arrived :-) woo hooo
Manged to get an Edis 4 unit, coil pack, NEW set of spark leads!, Throttle position sensor, VR sensor and 36-1 toothed wheel for crank position sensing - all for FREE!!!!
OK so Car Components of Gosport probably own my soul for a while - and will no doubt call in IT favours for their oily favours
Went to a local tuning place to have an insert lathe turned to fit inside the CVH toothed crank wheel which I managed to get off the old pulley seemingly without trashing it or loosing any teeth (or too much skin - which was nice)
I managed to temporarily hook everything up - and ran my old spark plugs to see if it did what it said on the tin - and hey presto - all 4 firing away like sparky things :-)
Only problem is - the software doesn't seem to report the RPM - so I suspect that it is currently running in static 10 degrees in limp home mode
Further reading suggested to check the transistors on the Megajolt unit - as many have been put together with them incorrectly fitted - sure enough ALL the trannies are soldered in wrong...DOH!
Hurriedly went about removing them all tonight (good excuse to get away from the football- hope my revving and cussing didn't disturb the footy fans...LOL)- and have put them in as to the schematic so fingers crossed for tomorrow evening if I get chance
The bracket to hold the sensor was just bashed out of an old bracket I had lying around - and is a bit bodgy and flexes a little - and I just don't trust the jubilee clip holding the sensor soo close to the toothed wheel (buzz saw??) so will be properly made as soon as I have it all in place Pictures of the toothed crank wheel - and the lathed insert and the before and after shots :-)

rob





16-6-06

Last nights schematic check turned up trumps - all the transistors were soldered in wrong - hence the laptop not getting RPM as the signal from the toothed wheel was not getting through to the Megajolt unit...DOH!!!
Well tonight was a breakthrough and managed to get the car running using the Megajolt system with the loom hanging over the side of the car and all seems good
(after managing to get the missing tooth on the toothed wheel 180 degrees out of line - causing the most almighty backfire I have ever heard causing neighbours to see who had been shot...LOL)
Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to mount and bolt down the hardware and shorten the miles of loom and try and get it neat enough to try and take it for a spin out on the road
The map I currently have in the unit is a 3D map of a slightly modified emerald map for a mild tuned pinto engine - but unless I can find a way of using the throttle sensor on my progressive 2 choke carb I'm going to be stuck with using it in 2D for now - but will be good for a shakedown test and to set the sequential shift lights and test the soft rev limiter out with for sure :-)
Hopefully the bike carbs will be back from the manifold man soon and we can try out the new system in anger

18-6-06 UPDATE

Managed to bodge a TPS sensor into the system As you can see its very bodgy - but seems to work OK - spent most of the weekend driving about trying different maps and tweaking to get it close to the old mech dissy as possible and think I have got it fairly close
First impressions in the system is very good - the soft rev limiter works quite nicely - better than I had expected
Not put any shift lights/over rev warning lights into the system yet - but seems very straight forward to do
As I have used one of the switched output terminals for the TPS input I still have another 5 RPM or TPS based configurable switches so I think I'm going to have a sequential shift LED cluster (green orange red orange green) F1 style - and perhaps a rev limit light

Megajolt stuff
Clever software interpolates between cells
Clever software interpolates between cells
Tickover on 3d map
Tickover on 3d map
bodgy TPS hookup
bodgy TPS hookup
the dreaded crank sensor
the dreaded crank sensor
redundant dissy
redundant dissy
A Brain the size of a fag packet!
A Brain the size of a fag packet!
Coil Pack
Coil Pack
Edis4 and miles of wire
Edis4 and miles of wire
Bloody crank sensor... again
Bloody crank sensor... again
Whos a pretty pulley?
Whos a pretty pulley?
IMGA0656.JPG
IMGA0656.JPG
IMGA0655.JPG
IMGA0655.JPG
IMGA0654.JPG
IMGA0654.JPG
IMGA0653.JPG
IMGA0653.JPG

19-6-06 UPDATE

Well I took the car to work today and managed to get big missfires and pops before I even got out of the street
The laptop was talking to the Megajolt without issues and all seemed OK from a quick glance
Like a fool I decided to swap maps and give another a try - just in case I had somehow broken the last map - but to no avail
The car finally coughed and spluttered its last spark a few hundred yards from home - so got the old rotor arm and cap back on and hurriedly did a change roadside back to the old system - which got me to work without any dramas
For the journey back I hooked everything back up and double checked the crank sensor which had lost its metal clip holding the connector into the sensor causing it to pop out - so missfire and complete kill explained as running 10 degrees limp home mode till it gave up completely
I remade the connection and it fired up without issue - so put the 2d map back on and thaught I'd concentrate on getting 2d as good as I could before trying to go full 3d :-)
Didnt make it too far down the road before I got big missfires and popping again - was it the map or the bloody sensor -I gingerly tried upping the advance - to see if the 2d map was just a bit stingy but keeping an eye on RPM and trying to hold it at a steady RPM clearly showed that the sensor seemed to be doing its own thing - so time to get the cable ties out.
Managed to clamp the sensor and cable securely to the bracket and gave it another go- wheelspinning and oodles of poke above 2/3000 so the sensor seems to have been causing untold strangeness - hopefuly we have it temporarily sorted for now - just got to get the curve to come in earlier I think

Hoping the journey into work is not too adventurous tomorrow if the weather is good - will be keeping an eye on the running RPM graph on the laptop all the way till it proves to be 100% stable :-)

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